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Not Just a Paper Doll

How Models Manage Bodily Capital and Why They Perform Emotional Labor

New York University

William Finlay

University of Georgia

Modeling is a challenging occupation because employment is irregular, the physical demands are great, and competition is fierce. Success as a model requires the careful management of bodily capital and the performance of emotional labor. Drawing on participant observations and interviews with models in the Atlanta fashion industry, the authors examine how they do the former and why they do the latter. They manage their bodily capital by subjecting themselves to intense self-regulation. Models perform emotional labor to sell themselves to clients and agents, to create illusions for observers and the camera, and to find dignity in a job that is often degrading and humiliating.

Key Words: models and modeling • emotional labor • bodily capital • fashion industry

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